Verona and the World’s Oldest Library

The Biblioteca Capitolare di Verona (or Chapter Library of Verona) was established in the 5^th century CE. Some 1,500 years later, I contributed (ever so slightly) to its illustrious history by paying it a visit on a decidedly steamy morning in August. What was I — a seasoned traveller — doing in Italy in August? I should know better, surely? I should, but the problem is, that if one wants to go to the ancient Arena di Verona and enjoy an opera or, in our case, an immersive concert featuring Vivaldi’s Four Seasons, then it has to be done in high summer.

On the day in question, I got to the library early, and had this room to myself for a blissful 15 minutes or so:

On my departure 90 minutes later, the same space was teeming with people. I felt rather sorry for them … along with a dash of secret delight at having experienced the room at its best. Maybe I could have sold them my photo.

The books on the shelves are within touching distance, but visitors are, quite rightly, cautioned against attempting to pick any of them up. Somehow, that doesn’t matter, as 1. I assume that one would need an expert on historical languages on hand to make sense of things, 2. The overall atmosphere was the thing, 3. There are security cameras everywhere. 

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Beyond the main room, lay a series of ante-rooms, each containing their own artworks, artefacts, and treasured volumes. When I visited, there was an astronomy exhibition, Looking up at the sky. Reading the universe through manuscripts and the stars, which displayed a selection of fascinating books and observational tools related to the discovery and evolving understanding of the cosmos. As the library puts it: “From Tycho Brahe to Kepler, and on to Galileo and the telescope, the way of studying the heavens was transformed, with increasingly precise observations, new instruments, mathematical calculations and critical analysis.”

The library is entered from the Piazza Duomo, so you really can’t miss it. Good value at EUR7 per ticket, too. I understand that the guided tours are excellent, but for those you’ll have to time your visit for a Saturday.

All in all, a diverting and enthralling couple of hours. Recommended.

Final word of advice: if seeking piazza-based refreshments, avoid the crowded and rather stifling Piazza Erbe and head instead (it's a longer walk, though) for the broader spaces of Piazza Bra, which is right next door to the aforementioned Arena di Verona.