Is charging an entry fee an innovative way of keeping Porto’s historical Livraria Lello bookshop open? Is it really connected to a mission to get the world into books? Or is the store — as many suggest in internet reviews — simply a money-grabbing, overcrowded tourist trap? It’s easy to agree with that last point when one encounters the selfie brigade, whose eyes never stray from their phones and whose sole interest in the books on display is as a backdrop for their posts on